Walking around Tiruvannamalai, there is a generosity of spirit, and such a paucity of means. Life hangs on a thread for many (others are well-fed). And how this rich and poor nation conducts its business in such a haphazard way; burning piles of rubbish lining the streets, monkeys scrounging through food containers. Beggars, pilgrims, tourists from the new age. Gurus, charlatans, get-rich-quick businessmen whizzing by banana vendors. Washed-out dirty would-be saddhus smoking beedies, women street sweepers spitting over shoulders in the muck. Strutting peacocks calling from walls.